IRIS VAN HERPEN X AUBADE

Step into a unique botanical universe. For Fall/Winter 2022-2023, Aubade invites luxury brand Iris van Herpen to create an exclusive capsule collection bringing the Dutch fashion designer’s unbounded creativity into the world of exquisitely crafted French lingerie.

Known for her other-worldly haute couture creations, Iris van Herpen’s work breaks down the boundaries between exceptional artisanal craftsmanship and pioneering multi-disciplinary techniques. Always on the hunt for new creative challenges, the designer was intrigued by the corsetry expertise of Aubade, one of the leading French lingerie brands since 1958, and delved deep into its extensive archive. In a transformative meeting of minds, both houses came together around their shared passion for luxurious materials and intricate techniques, resulting in an exquisite 10-piece collection where seduction meets savoir-faire.

Named “Sensory Illusion”, the collaboration immerses us in a magical botanical world where the body’s movements mirror those of nature. Iris van Herpen looked towards nature, exploring both its fragility and pulsating vitality, to create this one-of-a-kind collection where swirling leaf embroideries become mystical ornaments decorating the female body.

The designer came up with a new take on Aubade’s iconic ethereal gradations, adding a modern touch: graphic architectural lines which contrast with the organic shapes of the embroideries. Allowing for glimpses of skin, the botanical motif creates a seductive see-through effect on the cleavage, furthered by stunning embroidered panels on the back of the bras.

The line is available in two complementary colorways, each expressing a different interpretation of sensuality: “Golden Leaves”, a hypnotic contrast between bronze foliage and graphic black lines, and “Silk Rose”, a seductive blend of iridescent tones ranging from pale to antique pink.

The Iris van Herpen x Aubade collection features a wireless triangle bralette, underwired triangle bra, plunging padded bra and half cup bra, all with contrasting top-strapping and elastics which structure the line for a graphic look. Each bra features a matching tanga, an Italian brief or a statement St. Tropez all-over lace shorty. Rounding up the collection are a bodysuit, nightie, and seductive high waist suspender belt.

Echoing nature’s multitudes, the collection is peppered with signature details: the wireless triangle bralette, bodysuit and nightie all feature an eye-catching U-shaped gold jewel between the cups.

The Iris van Herpen x Aubade collection will be available at selected partner multi-brand stores, Aubade boutiques and the brand’s online store in June 2022.

Q&A with Iris van Herpen:

 1) A capsule collection between Iris van Herpen and Aubade is surely an unexpectedly exciting encounter. Can you tell us a bit about the first steps of this journey?

Aubade approached us for a collaboration for a collection together, expressing the delicate Couture spirit of IVH closely to the skin.  First various techniques in the lace were explored with layered embroidery and color gradients embroidered in it. After the lace techniques were developed the design process started and the sampling process.

2) The name of the collection "Sensory Illusion" sounds very intriguing and conceptual, just like your haute couture collection. Can you tell us a bit more about the idea behind it?

The vision was to translate an innovative intricacy that expresses an organic femininity, transparency and layering and to create dynamic depth through optical linework.

It is beautiful how organic linework can make your eye travel the skin, this was the concept behind it.

3) How was it possible to translate your avantgardistic approach to the body to a lingerie collection, having a more intimate and tailored approach to the body?

In our Haute Couture designs we play a lot with transparency in combination with optical linework that seems to float onto the skin, accentuating an artistic femininity. This same essence was explored in this collaboration, expressing intimacy artfully.

4) What's your point of view on lingerie in general? Did it change after working with Aubade, which was also your first array in this world?

 I love lingerie as it’s so personal, its often a hidden gem that is mostly a private experience. In a world that becomes more transparent every day, there is a beautiful mystery to find in lingerie.

Q&A with Samar Vignals, Brand and Product Director at Aubade:

 1) A capsule collection between Iris van Herpen and Aubade is surely an unexpectedly exciting encounter. Can you tell us a bit about the first steps of this journey?

It is indeed an unexpected and exciting encounter. It is simply astonishing to work with such a visionary designer, who combines the Dutch tradition of avant-garde design with the world of haute couture in the most creative way and ask her to create her first lingerie collection/pieces.

Iris van Herpen´s creations rely on 3D printing techniques – I think she was one of the first designers to use them in the field of fashion – and experimental materials, so it was very thrilling to see how the “dialogue” with the more “humanistic” and “sartorial” codes of Aubade and its atelier would develop. She started working on ethereal gradations typical of Aubade´s creations, giving to the organic shapes of the embroideries a modern twist via graphic architectural lines.

The journey with Iris took the shape of an artistic reflection on the mystery and the seductive nature of lingerie.

2) Can you tell us more about the creative process/interaction between Aubade and Iris van Herpen?

We gave Iris complete access to our archive and started a creative exchange and dialogue that focused on luxurious materials and intricate techniques, on the fragile and yet vital beauty of nature and on lingerie conceived as a beautiful secret.

We explored together different lace and embroidery techniques, we tested several combinations to create unique see-through effects and swirling leaf -like embroideries which function as mystical ornaments for the female body.

3) How was it possible to translate the avant-gardist approach of Iris to the body to a lingerie collection, having lingerie a more intimate and tailored approach to the body?

Iris penchant for transparency and delicate textures and her interest for lace-like structures as showed in her collections, her “closeness” to the body (before studying fashion, dance was her main passion) and her will to experiment were surely a good starting point and a common ground from this collaboration.

So, it was quite natural for Iris to create a kind of haute couture collection for the skin and thanks to our ateliers and know-how it was possible to translate her avant-garde approach into creations for the skin which use lace, embroidery and transparencies as means of expression.

About Iris van Herpen 

 Iris van Herpen is a Dutch fashion designer who is widely recognized as one of fashion’s most talented and forward-thinking creators who continuously pushes the boundaries of fashion design. She is a guest member of the Parisian Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, part of the Fédération française de la Couture,

since 2011. Often hailed as a pioneer in adopting 3D printing technologies in her construction techniques, Iris van Herpen’s vision is deeply influenced by the beauty of nature in all its unfamiliar forms. The designer’s intent is to blend the past and the future into a distinct version of the present by fusing technology and traditional Couture craftsmanship.

Iris van Herpen’s work has been featured in various museum exhibitions, including a major retrospective that is touring the United States since 2015, beginning with a six-month long run at the High Museum of Art in Atlanta. Six of her dresses were acquired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and seven of her works were exhibited in its highly successful 2016 “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology” show. In addition to the above, van Herpen’s creations have been exhibited at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, and the Cooper Hewitt Museum in New York, and the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, among others.

About Aubade

For over 60 years, Aubade has been the leader and pioneer in high-quality lingerie and French seduction. Our vision is to make a woman feel self-confident, beautiful, and seductive in a Parisian style every day.

Our Parisian studio and atelier design a new collection every season with new prints, colours and shapes that push the boundaries of creativity. Aubade stands for superior quality and long-lasting design. The brand has earned its reputation by using the finest and exclusive Calais and guipure laces and Swiss embroidery. To achieve the perfect product and fit, numerous highly skilled professionals are involved in the process: from designers to product managers, cutters, as well as our research, industrial and process departments. The whole process from the initial design to the delivery of the final product to the boutiques takes 18 months, that’s why at Aubade we can guarantee the perfect fit and best quality (from A to H cup).

Aubade is part of the Swiss Calida Group.

Andrea Gaines
Vice President, Easton International
[email protected]
https://www.eastoninternational.com